Maintaining a Straight Course in the Wilderness

Of course the best way to stay on course in the wilderness is with a compass, but you may be in a circumstance where you need to travel through the wilderness and you don't have a compass.  You would think that traveling in a straight line would be an easy thing, but it is not.  It is very common for people who are lost in the wilderness to walk in circles.  If you think this would not apply to you, try the following experiment:

1. Go out into a large field, parking lot, or other unobstructed area.  It's a really good idea to have a friend with you to stop you from running into something or walking out into the street.

2. Take a sighting on an object or landmark on the opposite side of the field.

3. Put on a blindfold and walk in a straight line toward your landmark.

4. When you take the blindfold off, I guarantee that you will be nowhere near your goal.

You see everyone has one leg that is a little shorter than the other, and everyone has one leg that is a little stronger than the other.  The difference in the stride of your right leg and your left leg may be tiny, but over the course of thousands of steps it is enough to cause you to move in a curved path.  Eventually you will curve all the way around and end up back where you started.

The only way to stay on a straight course without a compass is to use landmarks.  You need to begin your journey from a recognizable landmark, sight on a distant landmark, and walk toward it.  Turn back on a regular basis and note the location of your starting landmark.  When you reach your goal, look back to the landmark that you started from, then turn to the front and select another landmark that will keep you moving in the same direction.   This method will work over long distances if the country is fairly open.

If you are in dense forest you can use the same method on a much smaller scale, sighting from tree to tree in a straight line.  It is time consuming, but not as time consuming as walking for two days only to end up back where you started from.

Legend has it that the early Spanish explorers could only cross the vast, treeless plains of North Texas by driving stakes in the ground and sighting from stake to stake in order to keep a straight course.  This is supposedly where the name of this region, the "Staked Plains", came from.  I doubt if this legend is true because compasses were widely used by this time, and I can't imagine a large expedition that would be without one; but it makes a good story, and it would be a very practical way to cross an area with no natural landmarks.

Make a Cane Arrow with Split-Shaft Fletched

The split-shaft fletched cane arrow is one of the quickest and easiest types of arrow to make.  You will need the following tools and materials to make this arrow.

A piece of cane (bamboo or river cane) that is about three feet long and about the size of your little finger on the large end

A dried hardwood shoot about three-eights inch in diameter and about a foot long

A wild turkey tail feather

A yucca leaf

About a teaspoon of pine sap

A sharp knife

Pictured below: Materials needed to make a cane arrow with split cane fletching

A cane arrow shaft consists of two parts; the main shaft which is made of cane and the fore-shaft which is made of hardwood.  The cane portion of the shaft will be twenty-four to twenty-eight inches long, depending on your personal draw length.  To make the cane portion of the shaft you will need a piece of river cane or bamboo that is about the thickness of your little finger on the large end.  It should be several inches longer than you need the finished shaft to be.  This will give you some leeway in positioning the cane joints on the finished shaft, and it will also make the shaft easier to straighten.

You want to select the straightest canes that you can find for making arrows.  This will save you a lot of work when you straighten the shafts.  To straighten the shafts you will need to heat them gently over flame or coals and then bend them straight and hold them until they cool.  Canes can be straightened at the joints or in between the joints, whichever is necessary.  Be sure and heat the shafts slowly so the do not scorch or burn.  Rubbing grease or oil on the shafts before you heat them will help keep them from scorching.  To check the straightness of a shaft you can sight down the shaft and turn it slowly.  Any kinks or curves will be quickly visible.  Be sure and wear gloves or use pot-holders when straightening the hot shafts.

Now we need to cut the shaft to length.  It is very important where you locate the joints in this kind of arrow.  The large end of the cane will be to the front of the arrow, and the hardwood fore-shaft will fit down into the hole in the cane.  In order for the fore-shaft to have a solid base to rest on, you want to have cane joint located about two inches back from the front of the cane.  The back of the cane is where we will have our nock, and where we will insert our fletching; so you need to have a joint about an inch from the back of the shaft.

The string nock at the back of your arrow can be created by shaving of a about a half inch sliver of the cane on opposite sides of the cane.  This will leave a nice little nock.  You will need to use your knife to smooth down and flatten the part of the nock that comes into contact with the string.  If it is left sharp it may cut the string.  Pictured below: top, straightened and smoothed cane; bottom, close-up of the finished nock

Now place you knife blade down into the bottom of the nock and very carefully split the cane down to the last joint on the back of the cane.  This is where you will insert your fletching.  Pictured below: splitting the cane

We are going to fletch this arrow with a wild turkey feather.  Be sure to select a feather that has a good vane on both sides of the quill, and make sure that the vanes don’t curve too much.Take your turkey feather and cut a five inch section across the width of the entire feather.  Pictured below: top, Wild turkey  feather; bottom, section cut from whole feather

Very carefully open up the split in the back of the arrow shaft and slide the quill of the feather into the hole in the cane.  The vanes of the feather will stick out of the splits on each side of the shaft.  Pictured below: feather in place in cane shaft

When you have the feather positioned where you want it, take some yucca leaf fiber and wrap it tightly for about a half-inch in front of and a half-inch behind the feather.  Coat the wrappings with a little pine sap to help hold them in place and protect them from moisture.  Use a sharp knife or a flint flake to trim the fletchings to the desired shape.  Pictured below:  finished fletching

Now we need to put a fore-shaft into the front of the cane.  The fore-shaft is the only part of the arrow that will penetrate your target so it needs to be long enough to do some damage.  You will want about six to eight inches of fore-shaft to stick out of the cane.  Since you need to add the two inches that will fit down into the cane, the total length of the fore-shaft needs to be eight to ten inches.  You can just cut a fore-shaft to length, sharpen the point, and call it done; or you can use a larger diameter stick and whittle out a wooden broadhead type point.  Drop a little pine sap in the front of the cane and insert the foreshaft.  That's it.  Pictured below: front of cane shaft with foreshaft glued in place

A Good Trick for Notching Arrows without a Saw

If you don't have a Swiss army knife with a saw blade it can be a little tricky to cut the nocks on the back of arrows.  It's even harder to cut the deep notch needed to attach a stone or glass arrow point.  There is a way to make those notches with nothing but a knife blade.  This was taught to me by the old man who was my mentor in the wilderness.  I'm not sure where he learned it, but it's a pretty good trick.

First of all you need to cut your arrow shafts about six inch longer on the front and back than you want the finished arrow to be.  The reason for this extra length will become apparent in a moment.

Now to cut a nock in the back you need to take your knife and make a couple of little cuts on opposite sides of the shaft at the point that you want to be the back of your arrow.  Make these cuts about one-eighth of an inch deep.

Now turn the shaft 90 degrees, drop down about three-eighths of an inch, and make two more cuts on opposite sides of the shaft.

Now for this next part you really need to look at the picture because it's kind of hard to explain.  You're going to grab hold of the extra shaft length above the soon-to-be nock and pull it gently toward one of the top cuts.  Then you're going to push it in the opposite direction toward the other top cut.  As you rock the shaft back and forth, the grain of the wood should separate and run down from the two cuts.

Now start rocking the part that you are holding again, but this time you want to rock it ninety degrees from how you did the first time.  In other words, if you were pushing forward and backward the first time; now you want to be rocking from side to side.

Put some more pressure into the motion until the bottom cuts snap and come loose.  You should now be left with an arrow that has a nock in it.

Do the same thing on the front of the arrow only make the notch longer, about three-quarters of an inch.  This will give you a nice deep notch to seat an arrowhead in.

I wouldn't use this method to make a nice finished arrow, but for a quickie, survival type arrow it's a good trick to know.

Edible Wild Plants - Sassafras

DISCLAIMER:  Don't believe anything I or any body else tells you about edible wild plants.  Don't eat edible wild plants based on what you see in a book or on the inter-net.  Get a qualified instructor to show you the plants, and don't eat them until the instructor shows you how to prepare them, and then eats them him or herself.  Be aware that you may be allergic to a plant that someone else can eat without harm.  Be sure that any plants that you gather have not been sprayed with pesticides or herbicides.

In the "old days" it was common practice for pioneer families to imbibe a spring tonic.  This ritual was part medicinal and part psychological.  It was medicinal in that the tonic in question usually had some medicinal benefit, either real or imagined; and it was psychological in that it was an acknowledgment that the natural world was renewing itself and man, by the act of taking this purifying herb, was to be part of this renewal.  In the South, one of the most common spring tonics was Sassafras tea. 

The Sassafras (Sassafras albidum) is a fairly small tree, sometimes up to 40' tall, which grows throughout the Eastern United States.  The easiest way to identify the Sassafras is by its leaves.  You will find that the Sassafras has three distinctly different shaped leaves on the same tree.  Some of the leaves are oval shaped, some of the leaves are mitten shaped, and some of the leaves are three lobed.  All of the leaves have smooth edges, and are shiny on the upper surface.  Pictured below: The three different shaped leaves found on the sassafras tree

If you have any doubts about whether you have correctly identified a Sassafras, all you have to do is dig up a small root and smell of it.  Sassafras root smells exactly like rootbeer.

To make Sassafras tea, dig up several small roots and wash the dirt from them.  Bring a pot of water to a boil and throw the roots into the boiling water.  Let the roots boil for a few minutes until the water begins to turn a deep red.  Remove water from heat and let the tea steep.  Serve hot or cold.  Add honey or sugar if you like.  Native Americans added maple sugar.

Old timers referred to Sassafras tea as a blood thinner.  They said that it helped a person tolerate the coming summer heat better.  Modern science tells us that Sassafras contains a mild narcoleptic, a drug that induces drowsiness.  The Food and Drug Administration also warns us that Sassafras can cause cancer if given in large doses to laboratory rats over extended periods of time (so don't give your pet rat a washtub full of Sassafras tea every day).   

Apparently mosquitoes do not like the smell of Sassafras.  Take some of the tea and rub it on exposed areas of your skin to repel these pesky little critters.

Yet another use of Sassafras is as a thickener in stews.  You may remember the Hank Williams song about "Jambalya, crawfish pie, and filet gumbo."  Well, filet is the substance used to thicken gumbo, and filet is made from dried and powdered Sassafras leaves.  If you make your own filet be careful to remove the sharp stems and veins after the leaves have been crushed.  These can cause major stomach problems.  Also, be sure and don't give your pet rat too much gumbo.

I have read that Sassafras can be used to make a fire-bow-drill, but I have had no success with this.  The wood seems to be too hard.  I have intended to try and dig up a large Sassafras root, let it dry for six months and see if that wouldn't make a usable fire-bow-drill.  The root of the Cottonwood is the only part of that tree that I have ever been able to start a fire-bow fire with, and I was thinking that the same may hold true for the Sassafras, but I haven't got around to trying it yet.  Maybe you'll try it first and let me know. 

Make a Flemish Loop in a Bowstring

A Flemish loop is a loop that is twisted up as a permanent part of a bow string.  It is not a tied loop.  It is built in during the process of making the string.  I have never seen an example of an old Native American bowstring with a Flemish loop, nor have I ever seen any documentation of Native Americans using the Flemish loop.  This is not to say that they didn’t; it’s just to say that I have never seen any proof of it.  So, if you are trying to make a reproduction of an authentic Native American bow, you probably don’t want to make a string with a Flemish loop.  If, like me, you make wooden bows to shoot; a Flemish loop is a nice addition to the string.  I personally make my strings with a Flemish loop on one end, and then I tie the other end of the string to the bow with a permanent knot.  I do this whether the string is made of sinew, rawhide, yucca fiber, linen, or waxed Dacron.  In this example I am making a string from eight strands of waxed Dacron.  The string will be constructed by using the reverse wrap (posted elsewhere on this blog) to twist together two bundles, each bundle composed of four strands of waxed Dacron.  Here is how you make a Flemish loop in the string:

First lay cut and lay out your eight strands of waxed Dacron.  I generally cut the pieces one and-a-half times the length of the bow.

Now separate the strands into two bundles of four strands each.  Offset the strands in each bundle by about an inch apiece.

Now drop down about two inches below the shortest strand in each bundle and begin twisting the two bundles together using the reverse wrap.  Keep twisting until you have twisted up about two or two-and-a-half inches of string (this will depend on how large you want your loop).

Next fold the twisted part of the string over onto itself to form the loop.

Take each of the offset ends of the bundles and lay one of them down on each of the long portions of the bundles.  With waxed Dacron you can kind of squeeze them to meld the offset portion into the corresponding long portion.

Now continue your reverse wrap with the melded bundles.  Because you off set the strands to start with, the string will now taper down smoothly as you continue twisting.   

When you get to the point where each bundle has only four strands in it, you can stop and go back with a pair of scissors and trim of any ends that are sticking out from the offset strands. 

Continue twisting until you have completed the entire string and tie an overhand knot in the end of the string to keep it from unraveling.  That’s all there is to it. 

72 Hour Survival - Part 3

SIGNAL FOR HELP

There are four ways you can signal for help.  These are:

1. Building signal fires

2. Using your signal whistle

3. Using your mirror to signal aircraft

4. Constructing ground-to-air rescue symbols.

SIGNAL FIRES

The universal smoke signal for distress is three columns of smoke.  A good signal fire is visible for miles.  Try to build your signal fires in an open area so tree branches don't diffuse the smoke.  Build your three fires well apart from each other so that you will have three distinct columns of smoke.  To produce smoke, build a fire as you normally would.  Then the fire is burning well, pile green branches and leaves on it.  This will produce billowing columns of white smoke.

THE SIGNAL WHISTLE

A signal whistle can be heard over a great distance.  Blow three loud, shrill blasts on the whistle.  Pause for a minute and blow three more times.  Repeat three or four times.  Follow this routine about every 20 minutes.

THE SIGNAL MIRROR

If an aircraft passes near you, take out your signal mirror and hold it at an angle that will reflect the sun toward the aircraft.  Move the mirror from side-to-side and up-and-down.  This will create a series of bright flashes that may attract the pilot's attention.

GROUND-TO-AIR SIGNALS

Build your signals in an open area, clearly visible from above.  Signals may be built from rocks, logs, lines of fire, or trenches dug in the ground. Build them big; at least 40 feet long.  The 5 internationally recognized ground-to-air signals are:

V - meaning "I require assistance"

X - meaning "I need medical assistance"

N - "No"

Y - "Yes"

--> - meaning "Proceed this direction"

Use ground-to-air signals in conjunction with your signal mirror if an aircraft is spotted.

WATER

Locate a reliable source of fresh water. If you are able, return to the last source of water that you encountered.  If you are unable to do this, begin searching for water.  Remember, water seeks the lowest ground; so downhill is the direction to search.  In open country, a line of trees, especially willow or cottonwood, often indicates a stream.  Dig a hole in a dry stream bed and water will sometimes pool in the hole.  A fair amount of water can be obtained by wiping dew from rocks and plants.  Use a handkerchief or other item of clothing and mop up the dew.  Squeeze the moisture directly into your mouth.  Be sure that you are not wiping the dew from a poisonous plant.  Some plants contain a lot of moisture.  Remove the spines from prickly pear pads, cut into strips, and chew.  Swallow the moisture and spit out the fibers.  Wild grapes and berries contain moisture, but be sure you know what you are chewing on.  Cut a section of grapevine 5 or 6 feet long and drain the liquid from it.  You can drain the "water" directly into your mouth.  Any water collected from springs, streams, or rivers should be purified before drinking.  Collect the water in your canteen or in the plastic bag from your survival kit.  Use water purification tables according to directions on the bottle.  If you have a pot or metal can you can boil water to purify it.  Boil at least 10 minutes.  Note, boiling will kill bacteria but it will not remove harmful chemicals.  Don't sip your water to ration it.  This will waste moisture.  When you are thirsty drink at least a half-pint of water at a time.  Snow and ice can be used for water, but they should not be eaten as this will lower your body temperature and make you more susceptible to hypothermia.  Melt snow and ice next to your fire, then drink it.

BE PATIENT!!  PEOPLE ARE LOOKING FOR YOU!!  If you can avoid doing so, don't try to walk out on your own until you have given rescuers at least 72 hours to find you.

72 Hour Survival – Part 2

STAYING WARM AND DRY

There are two main ways of staying warm in the wilderness:

Number 1 - retain the heat that your body is already producing. Your body is a natural furnace.  It is producing a near constant 98.6 degrees of internal heat. If you prevent this heat from escaping, you will stay warm.

Number 2 - create an outside source of warmth (i.e. fire) that will replace any heat that radiates away from your body. 

Your first layer of defense against heat loss is your clothing.  Dress in layers.  Polypropylene  long johns, a flannel shirt, wool pants, a wool sweater, a Gortex windbreaker, and Gortex wind pants for your body.  Cotton or nylon inner socks, wool outer socks, and sturdy boots or shoes for your feet.  Wool mittens for your hands, and don't forget a hat.  40% of your body heat is radiated out through your head.  By dressing in layers, you can add or remove clothing to maintain a comfortable body temperature and avoid sweating which can cause chills.

Your second layer of defense is your reflective Mylar solar blanket.  Although it is very thin, the solar blanket will reflect your body's heat back on itself and keep you warm.

Your third line of defense is to build a survival brush shelter.  A properly built shelter will keep you warm and dry in sub-freezing temperatures.

BUILDING A SURVIVAL BRUSH SHELTER

The survival brush shelter is built entirely of found materials.  No tools are necessary.

1. Find a long pole, about 10', to use as a ridgepole.  Lay the ridgepole in the crotch of a tree or on a stout limb that is about 4' off the ground.

2. Lean shorter poles against the ridgepole at a 45 degree angle to form a series of ribs.  The short poles should be about 6 to 8 inches apart.  Leave an opening about 2 to 2 1/2 feet wide at the high end of the structure for a door.

3. Cover the entire structure with a layer of boughs.  The purpose of the boughs is not to seal the shelter, but to provide a base on which you can pile leaves and needles.

4. Gather dead leaves, pine needles, dead grasses, and any other debris that you can find and pile one to two feet of this material over the entire structure.  If you are in the structure and can see any light coming through, you need more debris.

5. Gather more short poles and lay another layer of ribs on top of the debris.  This is to keep the debris from blowing off of the shelter in a storm

6. Fill the entire interior of the structure with clean, dry leaves and needles.  Burrow into the interior leaves and needles to sleep warm and dry.  The leaves that you are laying on will compress, so make sure that you have at least 6 to 8 inches of compressed materials between you and the ground.

A FIRE FOR WARMTH

Fire is a powerful psychological tool against the despair of being lost in the wilderness.  Fire can keep you warm in cold weather.  Fire can be used to signal for help.  For all of these reasons it is important to be able to build a fire.  There are four main elements to a fire.  they are: (1) tinder to catch the initiaal spark, (2) kindling to catch the flames of the tinder, (3) fuel which is the larger logs that will produce the heat that you are seeking, and (4) an ignition system   to get the whole fire process started.   Of course all of these materials must be laid out in the proper way in order to insure a successful fire.  Here's how to build a fire:

1.  Gather tinder.  Very dry dead grass, very dry dead leaves, very dry dead pine needles, and shredded cedar bark all make good tinder.  Shredded paper, an old bird nest or mouse nest, and your emergency fire starter can also be used.  Pitch pine is an excellent tinder.  Look for a dead and fallen pine tree.  Check the rotted stump. It may have a hard, golden brown center.  If it is pitch pine it will have a strong turpentine smell.  Pitch pine will light and burn in the wettest weather.  When your tinder is gathered and prepared, lay it on the ground preferably on top of a piece of dead tree bark.  This will keep the tinder from absorbing moisture from the ground.

2. Gather kindling.  Kindling wood must be dead and dry.  One good source of small kindling is "squaw wood".  Squaw wood is found on standing live trees. Squaw wood is the small lower branches that have died, but not yet fallen off of the tree.  Squaw wood will generally be dry even in a rainstorm.  If the wood doesn't snap when broken from the tree, it is not dry enough.  Small kindling should be toothpick size.  Medium kindling is pencil thickness up to little finger thickness.  Large kindling is about an inch in diameter.  take your smallest kindling and lay it in a cone or pyramid shape on top of your tinder pile.  Leave a small opening where you can light the tinder when the time comes.  Continue laying kindling onto the pyramid with each layer of kindling increasing in size.

3. Gather fuel.  It will take a lot more fuel than you think to keep a fire going all night.  Fuel logs should be dry, dead wood, 2 to 4 inches in diameter.  Hardwood (oak, hickory, ash, elm, etc,) is the best, but anything will do in a pinch.  Lean 5 or 6 small fuel logs against your pyramid.

4. It is now time to light the fire.  Reach in with your match or lighter and ignite the tinder.  It is best to light the fire on the side from which the wind is blowing.  You may want to blow gently into the center of the initial blaze to feed oxygen to the fire.  If you have done a good job, flames will spread throughout the materials and you will have a good fire.

Improve the warming efficiency of your fire by building a reflector in back of it.  An 18 inch tall wall of rocks or green logs in back of the fire will reflect more of the heat towards you.  Conserve your fuel by keeping the fire relatively small.  Remember the old Indian adage, "A White man builds a big fire and stands back; an Indian builds a small fire and sits close."