Flu-flu arrows are arrows that are designed to travel at
regular speed for about thirty to forty yards and then to abruptly slow down
and drop to the ground. Flu-flus are
used in specific situations where you don’t want an arrow to go too far. A good example would be shooting at a
squirrel in a tree. If you shot a
regular arrow in this situation and missed the arrow might fly off a
hundred-and-fifty yards into the woods, and would probably be lost. With a flu-flu arrow, the arrow would
probably drop to the ground within thirty yards of you, making recovery much
more likely. Flu-flu arrows have very
different fletchings from regular arrows and require a different approach to
fletching. This is how I use whole
feathers bought at a big-chain craft store to make my flu-flu fletchings.
The first step is to reduce the size of the quill. I start this process by scraping the quill
with a sharp knife held perpendicular to the quill.
Once the quill has been scraped down pretty close to the
feather vanes, I use the butt of the knife handle and tap solidly along the
length of the quill. This will start
separating the feather into two sections.
I complete the separation by cutting very carefully with a
utility knife.
Now I can continue shaving down the sides of the quill until
it is as thin as I can get it without cutting into the feather vanes.
To work down the bottom of the quill I use some 80 grit
sandpaper wrapped around a large dowel and clamped into my small vise.
I then drag both the sides and the bottom of the quill
across this sanding block until the quill is extremely thin.
I test the thickness of the quill by wrapping it around a
5/16” dowel to see if it bends smoothly.
If the quill is too thick it will snap, rendering it useless.
When the quill is thinned down correctly, I assemble all of
the materials to attach the fletchings to the arrow. Here I am using two fletchings; one yellow
and one red. The fletchings will be
attached with contact cement.
I mark the area of the arrow that I want to cover with my
fletchings.
And then I use a throw-away foam brush to paint a coat of
contact cement onto the arrow. I cover
about a quarter inch above and below the area I will be working with.
Next I paint the bottom of each quill.
Now I set everything aside to dry. The contact cement must be completely dry to
the touch before you press the fletchings onto the shaft. And you have to be sure to put the fletchings
exactly where you want them. Once the
two painted surfaces touch, they’re stuck.
No changing your mind.
When it’s time to attach the fletchings I use a push pin to
hold the end in place.
And then spiral the first fletching on. I leave about an inch between the spirals so
I will have room to go in between with my second fletching.
The second fletching goes on the same way.
With both fletchings in place I separate the vans a little
and fluff them out.
I use a utility knife to trim off the excess quill at the
front and back.
And put a drop of fletching glue on the front and back of
each quill to help secure it more firmly.
Now I apply a coat of polyurethane to the shaft. I use a small artists brush to seal the area
between the fletchings.
And here’s the finished product, ready to go out and
irritate some squirrels.
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